Dr burks winter springs

This is my first character sheet so go easy on me
​

• Name: Perceval Moore
• Gender: Male
• Race: Human
• Age: 23 years
• Height: 6 ft. (1.8 m)
• Weight: 190 lbs. (86 kg)
• Class: Fighter

​

• Appearance

- Perceval is disheveled and has beige, splotchy skin. His yellow, dreary eyes shine through his greasy black hair. The dandruff receptacles he calls shoulders droop below his clavicle. His gaunt frame is accented with an audacious stride, which comes from the same place his extra weight does: an occasionally dysfunctional prosthetic leg. It’s a dull brass color with cogs at the knee and springs below the false kneecap, which appear shined due to the fact that it rubs up against his flowing black cloak with each step. He carries a crudely patched burlap sack, off of which hangs a flask and a measure of rope.

• Reference images (none of these are exact but they give ya the idea)
• https://game.capcom.com/cfn/sfv/charactenash/costume?lang=en
• https://www.deviantart.com/t-rexjones/art/Frankenstein-s-Creation-286829832
• https://gorillaz.fandom.com/wiki/Murdoc
• List of reference images in order: Nash from Street Fighter V, Illustration of Frankenstein's Monster by T-Rex Jones from Deviantart and Murdoc Nichals from Gorillaz, designed by Jamie Hewlett and Damon Albarn.

​

• Abilities/quirks

- Skepticism: Perceval isn’t one to fall for grifts. Snake oil salesmen don’t impress him and his psyche is bound tightly. Masters of mentalism and psychics have trouble prying into his mind.
- False leg: Born without a right leg, Perceval was equipped with a prosthetic leg made of cogs, springs and whatever was lying around the shop. His movement speed and mobility are generally uninhibited but worsen when his leg isn’t properly oiled and wound. (Sometimes sprockets dislocate for seemingly no reason) This also means he is less vulnerable to tripping attempts made on his right leg, due to the heftiness of his artificial appendage.
- Bad blood: Moore’s former appendage was infected with some nasty magic. Because of a lingering curse, he has an increased vulnerability to necrotic damage. (+2) He has nerve pain that flares up whenever necromantic magic is nearby, which serves as an early warning of danger or a tool for detecting dealers in the dark arts.
- Equipment: Rusty longsword, pot-lid shield and a hand-axe. Backpack includes a crowbar, 3 torches, a tinderbox, 5 days worth of rations, a medium water-skin, a flask and a bear trap. Carries 50 feet of rope strapped to the bag.
​

• Backstory

- Hilda Moore, a servant in the court of Lord Alabaster, was infected with a wicked blight that led to her death during childbirth. Her lone offspring Perceval, (named after her last living relative, a lord in a far away land), suffered the same terrible disease that afflicted his mother. This led to the medically necessary amputation of his hands at the forearm, and right leg at the middle-thigh. Before handing the child over to a local parish, a professor in Alabaster’s court named Dr. Solomon Fabian caught wind of the sorrowful situation and whisked the child away to his observatory in Hedgeborn. Raised in a gilded tower, hidden in a lush valley, the boy grew to be curious, though he was tragically ill equipped for exploration.
Professor Fabian began conducting experimental treatments and procedures on the boy beginning at the age of 7. It wasn’t until age 10 that the boy's adopted hands stayed attached. When the boy was 13, Fabian resorted to a deal containing unfavorable terms in order to afford his greatest experiment the gift of stride. In exchange for a leg preserved with magic, Fabian agreed to construct a ward for the Criminal titan Botwell Hogspore. After the exchange was made, the professor struggled to cut ties with the greedy baron who insisted on mutual benefit via immoral means.
The new limb granted Perceval freedom of movement, but something in his spirit changed. His disposition became bitter and tyrannical. His skin withered and his eyes seared a frightful yellow. Seeing how the magic changed the boy, the professor replaced the leg with a metallic remnant of an old hobby. Dissolving the pact with Hogspore meant certain doom, but Fabian’s conscience could bear it no longer. On his 14th birthday, Perceval watched his only real family die before his eyes a second time. Hogspore spared the boy, but banished him from Hedgeborn for all of his cursed days. After drifting from odd job to odd job, Perceval finds himself itching for vengeance.
​

• Flaws and dislikes

- Perceval is a binge drinker, and on days he can’t trek very far he’s barely functional. He has a very all or nothing attitude about travel and alcohol.
- He isn’t loyal to any deity or religion, which is ironic considering he could really use some magical help and healing. He resents Paladins especially.
- He’s got no connections and the little family that he has resent him.
- He’s physically frightening. He scares children.
- He’s got a few disabilities. They wouldn’t be much of an issue but he doesn’t have access to the proper medication. This means he has chronic pain in his hands and he gets eye twitching due to the necromantic juju in his blood. Not to mention the bum leg.

• Strengths

- Perceval learned the rules of swordsmanship before he had proper hands. His adopted father was a great admirer of the art of fencing and a connoisseur of the blade. In combination with his experience as hired steel, he handles edged weapons almost as well as whisky.
- He can outdrink even the toughest of sailors.
- Mr. Moore knows what he looks like, and uses his startling appearance to his advantage whenever possible. His height, his dark second-hand hands and his piercing, weepy eyes grant him an intimidation bonus.
​

• Allies

- Jax and Ibek the leg breakers. They work for Mr. Mojo, a shell trader and Whisp-weed dealer in his close-enough-to-home town of Fishborn. Jax is a cunning dark elf who always knows a guy. He’s done favors for Perceval, and Perceval has done favors for him. They’ve worked, eaten, and fought alongside each other. Jax is the closest thing Perceval has to a best friend. He rooms with Ibek, a gentle half-giant who snaps arms for a living and crotchets in his free time.
- Fritz Gumms the marshal, one of the few staples of law enforcement in the far-west city of Jewelcrest. He gave Perceval a warm meal and a dry cell to sleep in after he caught him stealing from the mayor's office. He’s Percy’s emergency contact.
- Piper (and Marion) the witchy shop keepers. On the outskirts of Hedgborn is a little slum called Sludgeborn, where the servants who don’t reside in the houses of their masters live. Along these strips of housing are carts and booths set up selling everything you could want and plenty you don’t need. In the fabric business is the stitch-witch Piper. She has described herself at various times as both “super fucking chill” and “goth but only for the music and the fashion and the culture and the self loathing.” Her sock puppet Marion keeps her company while she sells camel skins and microfiber underpants.
​

• Acquaintances

- Llewelyn Scruffs the bounty hunter. He’s a harengon outlaw that drifted into Jewelcrest around the same time Perceval got arrested. Scruffs bailed him out, but only because there was a much bigger bounty on his head in the next town over. While traveling, they were attacked by raiders. Perceval saved the outlaw’s life, but Scruffs was badly wounded. He agreed to take the cowboy into town, but on the condition that he didn’t turn him in. Llewelyn held up his end of the bargain, but resented Perceval for making him walk the last mile on his own.
- Robin Huperts the tavern keeper. She grew up in an adopted family just like Perceval. During his early adult years, she took pity on him and let him crash in her supply closet. She kicked him out after she caught him stealing beer, but she reads the letters he occasionally sends her way.
- Precious Romwitsy the traveling actress. The Redmoon theater drifts from town to town, finding audiences in everyone from nobility to paramilitary groups to farmers who can barely afford a ticket. The crown jewel of the traveling theater is Precious Romwitsy- a true thespian at heart. She shares Perceval’s periodic problems with alcohol. They’ve swapped plenty of stories, and forgotten just as many at the bottom of a bottle. He repulses her, but her vanity is melted by his witty countenance.
- List of canonical encounters with this OC: None yet!
If you made it this far... idk that's kinda crazy. Thanks tho :)

Its winter (well kinda spring now but this was happening all winter long) and my apartment is way too hot. Its heated through radiators and you can turn your own radiators on and off and control your apartments heating that way, however there are radiators in the stairwell (its a walk up apartment fyi and we live on the top floor) that are constantly on and are extremely hot… Like im panting almost passing out from how hot and humid it is.
So I contacted the landlord saying that the radiators in the stairwell are way too hot and are making all the upper level apartments a sauna. My apartment is 26°C-27°C. She sent the super to come talk to us and see whats up and he was basically just like, “yeah they need to be on because its winter and thats the law, just open a window and be glad youre not cold”.
For the entire winter season my apartment has had all its windows open with fans at full blast trying to lower the temperature which is causing a lot of unnecessary hydro costs… like why should i have to pay to cool my apartment…?
Anyways, I am not really sure what to do. Any help would be appreciated

Official estimates of UK Covid-19 infections will come to a halt on Friday – just as levels may be on the increase again.
The long-running coronavirus infection survey, dubbed the “envy of the world” for its success in measuring prevalence of the virus among the population, will publish its final regular update on March 24.
Any further monitoring of Covid-19 will be announced after a review to ensure it is “cost effective”, according to the UK Health Security Agency (UKHSA).
Statistical experts hailed the survey as the “jewel in the crown of UK science”, adding it is “vital” this kind of “trusted and reliable” resource is available in the future.
The survey collected tests from households regardless of whether participants knew they had Covid-19, or if they were reporting results to the NHS, meaning it provided a snapshot of the true spread of the virus, which was often underestimated by Government figures.
Sir David Spiegelhalter, emeritus professor of statistics at Cambridge University and chairman of the advisory board for the survey, told the PA news agency...
“There is a general consensus that the survey has been a world-leading demonstration of how health surveillance can best be done. A loyal cohort of participants have provided repeated swabs, blood tests and symptom data – and if we did not test people without symptoms, how else would we know how many were infected and yet symptom-free?
“It is expensive, and this has led to it being paused, but the participant group is not being disbanded and a survey should be able to ramp up when necessary.”
The survey has been led by the Office for National Statistics (ONS) and was rolled out across the UK during summer 2020, just after the first wave of the virus.
It has measured every wave since then, with its figures revealing the biggest wave came in spring 2022 when weekly infections hit 4.9 million, followed by winter 2021/22, which peaked at 4.3 million.
In recent months the survey has helped track the scale and progress of the Christmas 2022 wave, which peaked at nearly three million infections, as well as the latest rise in prevalence of the virus.
Thomas House, professor of mathematical statistics at Manchester University and one of the academic collaborators on the survey, said that while he accepted it had been costly to run and there was a need to save money, it was a shame to see the project end at this point and not run for slightly longer.
“The survey was designed to be scaled up and down, so a better decision might have been to just scale it down for a bit – especially as we don’t know where Covid will settle in terms of long-term prevalence, and we don’t know what next winter is going to look like.
📆 23 Mar 2023 📰 ‘Jewel in the crown’ Covid-19 infection survey bows out on Friday
Tumblr
https://nation.cymru/news/jewel-in-the-crown-covid-19-infection-survey-bows-out-on-friday/

I mean I doubt this will be how it goes but the fan in me would love for some sort of cliche happy ending last scene were we watch the original TNG crew standing at dock watching a new Enterprise gliding out of space berth before it cuts to the bridge where we see Commander Seven having all stations check in, medical with Dr. Jack Picard checks in, Engineering with Engineer Alandra La forge reports all systems a go, Helm with Ensign Sidney Laforge reports ready, tactical reports all good with Alexander Rozhenko on loan from the Klingon Defense force for some reason due to the whole changling plot lol, where it then cuts to the captains chair where there sits my new favorite dipshit from Chicago uttering some one liners about being stuck with the off spring of trouble makers and he just wants one normal week 🥴😂 it’s ridiculous and really doesn’t make any narrative sense but I’d die laughing and love the ridiculousness of it all the same

# Today In Phishstory - March 24th Brought to you by tiph-bot. Beep.
All data extracted via The Phishnet API.

Phish

Phish, Wednesday 03/24/1993 (30 years ago) Luther Burbank Center for the Arts, Santa Rosa, CA, USA
Gap Chart, Tour: 1993 WinteSpring Tour
Set 1 : Llama , Foam , Fee > Poor Heart , Maze , I Didn't Know ¹ , Sample in a Jar , All Things Reconsidered , Runaway Jim , Amazing Grace ² , Cavern
Set 2 : The Landlady > Split Open and Melt , Sparkle > Tweezer > Mound , Big Ball Jam > Fast Enough for You , You Enjoy Myself , The Horse ³ > Silent in the Morning , Hold Your Head Up > The Prison Joke ⁴ > Hold Your Head Up > Terrapin > Hold Your Head Up , Good Times Bad Times
Encore : Carolina ² , The Squirming Coil
1 Fish on trombone. 2 Without microphones. [3] Trey on acoustic guitar. [4] Was told by an audience member named "Sam" after Fish refused to tell it.
Jamchart Notes:
Split Open and Melt - Rhythmically oriented jam with awesome Fish and shredding Trey which gets increasingly experimental and dissonant.
Show Notes:
I Didn't Know featured Fish on trombone and The Horse featured Trey on acoustic guitar. Amazing Grace and Carolina were performed without microphones. You Enjoy Myself contained Amazing Grace and the theme from Speed Racer teases. The Lion Sleeps Tonight and Under Pressure were teased in the You Enjoy Myself vocal jam. The Prison Joke was told by an audience member named "Sam" after Fish refused to tell it. Fish teased Moby Dick before Good Times Bad Times. The soundcheck's Ready for Love also contained bits of No Quarter and Slave (The Rolling Stones).
Listen now at Phish.in!
Phish, Tuesday 03/24/1992 (31 years ago) Flood Zone, Richmond, VA, USA
Gap Chart, Tour: 1992 Spring Tour
Set 1 : Stash , Poor Heart , Foam , Eliza > Rift , Golgi Apparatus , The Horse > Silent in the Morning , Llama , Colonel Forbin's Ascent > Fly Famous Mockingbird ¹ > The Landlady , David Bowie
Set 2 : The Curtain > Mike's Song > I Am Hydrogen > Weekapaug Groove ² , Guelah Papyrus , The Mango Song , Brother ³ , Uncle Pen , I Didn't Know ⁴ > The Oh Kee Pa Ceremony > Suzy Greenberg > Harry Hood , Cavern ³
Encore : Lawn Boy , Fire
1 Narration gave brief recap of Gamehendge saga. 2 Screams from band members. [3] Carl Gerhard on cornet. [4] Fish on Bag-Vac.
Show Notes:
The Mockingbird narration gave a brief recap of the Gamehendge saga and included Wilson teases. The Bowie intro included Take Five teases. Trey teased Moving in Stereo in Mike's Song. Weekapaug featured screaming band members and a Mainstreet tease. Brother and Cavern featured Carl Gerhard on cornet. Before I Didn't Know (which featured Fish on Bag-Vac), Trey introduced Fish as "Clifford O'Sullivan, a beacon of light in the world of flight."
Listen now at Phish.in!
Phish, Friday 03/24/1989 (34 years ago) The Paradise, Boston, MA, USA
Gap Chart, Tour: 1989 Tour
Set 1 : Possum , Mike's Song > I Am Hydrogen > Weekapaug Groove , Golgi Apparatus > Divided Sky , AC/DC Bag , If I Only Had a Brain , Take the 'A' Train , David Bowie
Jamchart Notes:
Mike's Song - This fiery version marks the first instance of the 2nd jam, separated from the 1st jam by D, E, and F# chords at 5:22. While only 20 seconds in duration, over time, the 2nd jam would at times become significant. The 2nd jam concludes with a repeat of the D,E, and F# chords, followed by the closing chords.
Show Notes:
This setlist is incomplete and is out of order. The only recording in circulation is a mix of songs from the show, which features Hydrogen brutally cut out of the Mike's Groove. This setlist is in the order in which those songs appear on the mix. (The mix also includes several songs from the Paradise show on January 26, 1989.) Possum contained a Rudolph the Red-Nosed Reindeer tease, which raises the question - were these songs really performed in March 1989? David Bowie closed the first set. Before Brain, someone introduced Fish - or is it Phish - as being "from Bogota, Columbia." It is therefore possible that Brain opened this show, which would be the only (known) time that Brain opened a show.
Listen now at Phish.in!

Mike Gordon

Mike Gordon, 2019-03-24 The Sinclair, Cambridge, MA, USA
Setlist: https://phish.net/setlists/mike-gordon-march-24-2019-the-sinclair-cambridge-ma-usa.html
Tour: Not Part of a Tour
Show Notes: The Grid included additional lyrics referencing "Josh," who was a bartender during Thursday's show and a subject of banter from Mike for the rest of the Sinclair run.

John Fishman

Pork Tornado, 2000-03-24 Snow Barn, Mt. Snow, VT, USA
Setlist: https://phish.net/setlists/jon-fishman-march-24-2000-snow-barn-mt-snow-vt-usa.html
Tour: Fish - Pork Tornado Spring 2000
Show Notes:

Other

Keller Williams, 2012-03-24 Higher Ground, South Burlington, VT, USA
Setlist: https://phish.net/setlists/guest-appearance-march-24-2012-higher-ground-south-burlington-vt-usa.html
Tour: Not Part of a Tour
Show Notes: Mike sat in for I'm Yours and Born to Be Wild.

I was admiring the picture from the link above and noticed the following:
-ying/yang purse on top right. Interesting to note that right now we are in a waxing crescent moon (almost full shadow 4% illumination) and on April 3rd we will be in a Waxing Gibbious (almost full moon ambient light 93% illumination). ying/yang with moon phases potentially while darkness will become light.
-books on bottom right of picure tinfoil:

• The Art of happy moving. Tgis book is about, How to stage your home for prospective buyers How to choose your next neighborhood How to discard your belongings and organize your packing How to say goodbye to your friends How to make the transition easier for your kids How to decorate your new home How to build a new community And so much more. (Selling or M&A?)

-The Blue Jay's dance. About a mother's experience in having a baby. Woman's empowerment in the whole experience. Winter pregnancy to a new baby in spring and summer of a new child. (Carving out BABY?)
-The tipping point.The tipping point is that magic moment when an idea, trend, or social behavior crosses a threshold, tips, and spreads like wildfire. Just as a single sick person can start an epidemic of the flu, so too can a small but precisely targeted push cause a fashion trend, the popularity of a new product, or a drop in the crime rate. (Fight against naked shorts?)
-Time travelers wife: Does R C Cohen represent the time traveling husband? Who dissappear and re appears after a long period of time?
That's all I got. Also noticed a boot on left side of screen by itself. Do not know how to interpret that.

I have been using an Ender 3 S1 for a little over a year now. The one thing I struggled with was good bed adhesion.
TL;DR - Tempered Glass Composite surface build plate + Adhesive backed magnetic sheet + Glue Stick from the Dollar Store = Excellent part adhesion and ease of removal. Also, what I thought was critical wasn't.
The spring steel build plate they sent with the printer was fine until it wasn't. Basically after a month of constant use, and miss use (I am new at this) part adhesion became an issue. And to quantify constant use I love this hobby and basically keep my printer busy 24/7 (no joke).
Next I bought an off brand spring steel build plate. Again it worked until it didn't. After a month parts wouldn't stick to it. To extend the life I lightly took sand paper to it which worked for a couple more weeks. But soon enough the inevitable occurred.
After some reading I decided to give a tempered glass plate a try. I purchased a Comgrow composite coated tempered glass bed cover. It worked amazingly for about a week. Then once more the parts wouldn't adhere. I tried cleaning like the interwebs said and still no joy. They were also bulky and having two did me little good because of having to use clips to hold them down. So I moved on, the proud owner of two worthless tempered glass beds (or I thought).
After that I decided to try the flexible bed plates made by Ender. They were great and cheap (11 dollars each on Amazon). I could get one to last for a decent time (1 week to 4 weeks) depending on the mistakes I made. Each came with a sheet magnet that I didn't need and after 6 months I had quite a few. The build plates worst quality was that they would actually stick too much if my z-offset was too close to the bed, leading to the covers premature failure but, they were very forgiving when the gap was too much.
I decided to try adhesive on the glass plates. Couldn't hurt right. Searched the interwebs once more looking for the right adhesive. Everyone has an opinion and I seriously doubt they have tried anything but the adhesive they first tried. I say this because of my experience. I got the cheapest glue sticks I could find at General Dollar.
Here is my might as well try it formula.
Comgrow Composite Covered Tempered Glass Bed - twenty dollars.
Generic Stick Glue - 3 dollars for eight sticks
One magnet sheet with adheasive on the back
One bed clamp tightened hand tight (and I only did this just incase after about 10 prints. I probably don't need it.
Directions:

1. Remove the adhesive backing from the magnetic plate and install it on the back of the tempered glass plate. Try to minimize air bubbles. But if you get some it doesn't affect it at all. BTW the interwebs told me that this wouldn't work. Sometimes the interwebs are wrong.
2. Put the plate on the printer and add one bed clamp, hand tightened, for good measure.
3. Coat the bed plate with the glue stick. You can do this cold or hot. Not critical either way.
4. Print-win.

You won't need to reapply after every print. As a matter of fact when you start having bed adhesion issues you can, touch up the areas with the glue stick. I haven't had to clean the plate yet, using soap and water (the glue is water soluble) but there is a bit of maintenance that I do.
As you reapply a few times you will find that the glue builds up and can actually slightly affect the levelness of the surface. It is minor and I only saw it because of a octoprint bed visualizer plug-in. But this has a simple fix that is actually pretty cool. I use my scraper on the bed to take off the excess glue. After scraping you will notice that the composite surface, which which is made up of a tiny grid pattern, will have held on to the glue in its spaces. Amazingly you can get a few prints after that with no issues and start the whole process over again.
I haven't seen any difference in the adhesion surface on my print either. They have actually improved if anything. With the flexible plates I was getting discoloring on the part even if my z-offset was right.
I have been doing this for a few days now without any major issues. I am still on my first glue stick after many parts (well over 25) and I have only used a quarter of the glue stick.
At first I didn't use a bed clip and the magnet held it in place perfectly. Then I added one to the front. Not to secure the bed during printing, but to secure it when I use the scraper to remove the harder parts.
The parts mostly come off with your hands. The larger ones I have printed needed a little convincing with a scraper to get a corner up. But after that they came right off with just hand pressure. I actually am peeling off the skirt around my print easily with my fingers. In other words, no more scraper battels resulting in plate failure.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-3D-Platform-235x235x3mm/dp/B07DS2LZF1 - I use the 220mm version but couldn't find it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Elmer-s-Disappearing-Purple-School-Glue-Sticks-Washable-7g-0-24-oz-4-Count/25862849 - Not exactly what I use but the point is that it isn't really that critical. I went for cheap and water washable.
May all your prints stick and your camels have many babies...

I have been using an Ender 3 S1 for a little over a year now. The one thing I struggled with was good bed adhesion.
TL;DR - Tempered Glass Composite surface build plate + Adhesive backed magnetic sheet + Glue Stick from the Dollar Store = Excellent part adhesion and ease of removal. Also, what I thought was critical wasn't.
The spring steel build plate they sent with the printer was fine until it wasn't. Basically after a month of constant use, and miss use (I am new at this) part adhesion became an issue. And to quantify constant use I love this hobby and basically keep my printer busy 24/7 (no joke).
Next I bought an off brand spring steel build plate. Again it worked until it didn't. After a month parts wouldn't stick to it. To extend the life I lightly took sand paper to it which worked for a couple more weeks. But soon enough the inevitable occurred.
After some reading I decided to give a tempered glass plate a try. I purchased a Comgrow composite coated tempered glass bed cover. It worked amazingly for about a week. Then once more the parts wouldn't adhere. I tried cleaning like the interwebs said and still no joy. They were also bulky and having two did me little good because of having to use clips to hold them down. So I moved on, the proud owner of two worthless tempered glass beds (or I thought).
After that I decided to try the flexible bed plates made by Ender. They were great and cheap (11 dollars each on Amazon). I could get one to last for a decent time (1 week to 4 weeks) depending on the mistakes I made. Each came with a sheet magnet that I didn't need and after 6 months I had quite a few. The build plates worst quality was that they would actually stick too much if my z-offset was too close to the bed, leading to the covers premature failure but, they were very forgiving when the gap was too much.
I decided to try adhesive on the glass plates. Couldn't hurt right. Searched the interwebs once more looking for the right adhesive. Everyone has an opinion and I seriously doubt they have tried anything but the adhesive they first tried. I say this because of my experience. I got the cheapest glue sticks I could find at General Dollar.
Here is my might as well try it formula.
Comgrow Composite Covered Tempered Glass Bed - twenty dollars.
Generic Stick Glue - 3 dollars for eight sticks
One magnet sheet with adheasive on the back
One bed clamp tightened hand tight (and I only did this just incase after about 10 prints. I probably don't need it.
Directions:

1. Remove the adhesive backing from the magnetic plate and install it on the back of the tempered glass plate. Try to minimize air bubbles. But if you get some it doesn't affect it at all. BTW the interwebs told me that this wouldn't work. Sometimes the interwebs are wrong.
2. Put the plate on the printer and add one bed clamp, hand tightened, for good measure.
3. Coat the bed plate with the glue stick. You can do this cold or hot. Not critical either way.
4. Print-win.

You won't need to reapply after every print. As a matter of fact when you start having bed adhesion issues you can, touch up the areas with the glue stick. I haven't had to clean the plate yet, using soap and water (the glue is water soluble) but there is a bit of maintenance that I do.
As you reapply a few times you will find that the glue builds up and can actually slightly affect the levelness of the surface. It is minor and I only saw it because of a octoprint bed visualizer plug-in. But this has a simple fix that is actually pretty cool. I use my scraper on the bed to take off the excess glue. After scraping you will notice that the composite surface, which which is made up of a tiny grid pattern, will have held on to the glue in its spaces. Amazingly you can get a few prints after that with no issues and start the whole process over again.
I haven't seen any difference in the adhesion surface on my print either. They have actually improved if anything. With the flexible plates I was getting discoloring on the part even if my z-offset was right.
I have been doing this for a few days now without any major issues. I am still on my first glue stick after many parts (well over 25) and I have only used a quarter of the glue stick.
At first I didn't use a bed clip and the magnet held it in place perfectly. Then I added one to the front. Not to secure the bed during printing, but to secure it when I use the scraper to remove the harder parts.
The parts mostly come off with your hands. The larger ones I have printed needed a little convincing with a scraper to get a corner up. But after that they came right off with just hand pressure. I actually am peeling off the skirt around my print easily with my fingers. In other words, no more scraper battels resulting in plate failure.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-3D-Platform-235x235x3mm/dp/B07DS2LZF1 - I use the 220mm version but couldn't find it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Elmer-s-Disappearing-Purple-School-Glue-Sticks-Washable-7g-0-24-oz-4-Count/25862849 - Not exactly what I use but the point is that it isn't really that critical. I went for cheap and water washable.
May all your prints stick and your camels have many babies...

I have been using an Ender 3 S1 for a little over a year now. The one thing I struggled with was good bed adhesion.
TL;DR - Tempered Glass Composite surface build plate + Adhesive backed magnetic sheet + Glue Stick from the Dollar Store = Excellent part adhesion and ease of removal. Also, what I thought was critical wasn't.
The spring steel build plate they sent with the printer was fine until it wasn't. Basically after a month of constant use, and miss use (I am new at this) part adhesion became an issue. And to quantify constant use I love this hobby and basically keep my printer busy 24/7 (no joke).
Next I bought an off brand spring steel build plate. Again it worked until it didn't. After a month parts wouldn't stick to it. To extend the life I lightly took sand paper to it which worked for a couple more weeks. But soon enough the inevitable occurred.
After some reading I decided to give a tempered glass plate a try. I purchased a Comgrow composite coated tempered glass bed cover. It worked amazingly for about a week. Then once more the parts wouldn't adhere. I tried cleaning like the interwebs said and still no joy. They were also bulky and having two did me little good because of having to use clips to hold them down. So I moved on, the proud owner of two worthless tempered glass beds (or I thought).
After that I decided to try the flexible bed plates made by Ender. They were great and cheap (11 dollars each on Amazon). I could get one to last for a decent time (1 week to 4 weeks) depending on the mistakes I made. Each came with a sheet magnet that I didn't need and after 6 months I had quite a few. The build plates worst quality was that they would actually stick too much if my z-offset was too close to the bed, leading to the covers premature failure but, they were very forgiving when the gap was too much.
I decided to try adhesive on the glass plates. Couldn't hurt right. Searched the interwebs once more looking for the right adhesive. Everyone has an opinion and I seriously doubt they have tried anything but the adhesive they first tried. I say this because of my experience. I got the cheapest glue sticks I could find at General Dollar.
Here is my might as well try it formula.
Comgrow Composite Covered Tempered Glass Bed - twenty dollars.
Generic Stick Glue - 3 dollars for eight sticks
One magnet sheet with adheasive on the back
One bed clamp tightened hand tight (and I only did this just incase after about 10 prints. I probably don't need it.
Directions:

1. Remove the adhesive backing from the magnetic plate and install it on the back of the tempered glass plate. Try to minimize air bubbles. But if you get some it doesn't affect it at all. BTW the interwebs told me that this wouldn't work. Sometimes the interwebs are wrong.
2. Put the plate on the printer and add one bed clamp, hand tightened, for good measure.
3. Coat the bed plate with the glue stick. You can do this cold or hot. Not critical either way.
4. Print-win.

You won't need to reapply after every print. As a matter of fact when you start having bed adhesion issues you can, touch up the areas with the glue stick. I haven't had to clean the plate yet, using soap and water (the glue is water soluble) but there is a bit of maintenance that I do.
As you reapply a few times you will find that the glue builds up and can actually slightly affect the levelness of the surface. It is minor and I only saw it because of a octoprint bed visualizer plug-in. But this has a simple fix that is actually pretty cool. I use my scraper on the bed to take off the excess glue. After scraping you will notice that the composite surface, which which is made up of a tiny grid pattern, will have held on to the glue in its spaces. Amazingly you can get a few prints after that with no issues and start the whole process over again.
I haven't seen any difference in the adhesion surface on my print either. They have actually improved if anything. With the flexible plates I was getting discoloring on the part even if my z-offset was right.
I have been doing this for a few days now without any major issues. I am still on my first glue stick after many parts (well over 25) and I have only used a quarter of the glue stick.
At first I didn't use a bed clip and the magnet held it in place perfectly. Then I added one to the front. Not to secure the bed during printing, but to secure it when I use the scraper to remove the harder parts.
The parts mostly come off with your hands. The larger ones I have printed needed a little convincing with a scraper to get a corner up. But after that they came right off with just hand pressure. I actually am peeling off the skirt around my print easily with my fingers. In other words, no more scraper battels resulting in plate failure.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-3D-Platform-235x235x3mm/dp/B07DS2LZF1 - I use the 220mm version but couldn't find it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Elmer-s-Disappearing-Purple-School-Glue-Sticks-Washable-7g-0-24-oz-4-Count/25862849 - Not exactly what I use but the point is that it isn't really that critical. I went for cheap and water washable.
May all your prints stick and your camels have many babies...

I have been using an Ender 3 S1 for a little over a year now. The one thing I struggled with was good bed adhesion.
TL;DR - Tempered Glass Composite surface build plate + Adhesive backed magnetic sheet + Glue Stick from the Dollar Store = Excellent part adhesion and ease of removal. Also, what I thought was critical wasn't.
The spring steel build plate they sent with the printer was fine until it wasn't. Basically after a month of constant use, and miss use (I am new at this) part adhesion became an issue. And to quantify constant use I love this hobby and basically keep my printer busy 24/7 (no joke).
Next I bought an off brand spring steel build plate. Again it worked until it didn't. After a month parts wouldn't stick to it. To extend the life I lightly took sand paper to it which worked for a couple more weeks. But soon enough the inevitable occurred.
After some reading I decided to give a tempered glass plate a try. I purchased a Comgrow composite coated tempered glass bed cover. It worked amazingly for about a week. Then once more the parts wouldn't adhere. I tried cleaning like the interwebs said and still no joy. They were also bulky and having two did me little good because of having to use clips to hold them down. So I moved on, the proud owner of two worthless tempered glass beds (or I thought).
After that I decided to try the flexible bed plates made by Ender. They were great and cheap (11 dollars each on Amazon). I could get one to last for a decent time (1 week to 4 weeks) depending on the mistakes I made. Each came with a sheet magnet that I didn't need and after 6 months I had quite a few. The build plates worst quality was that they would actually stick too much if my z-offset was too close to the bed, leading to the covers premature failure but, they were very forgiving when the gap was too much.
I decided to try adhesive on the glass plates. Couldn't hurt right. Searched the interwebs once more looking for the right adhesive. Everyone has an opinion and I seriously doubt they have tried anything but the adhesive they first tried. I say this because of my experience. I got the cheapest glue sticks I could find at General Dollar.
Here is my might as well try it formula.
Comgrow Composite Covered Tempered Glass Bed - twenty dollars.
Generic Stick Glue - 3 dollars for eight sticks
One magnet sheet with adheasive on the back
One bed clamp tightened hand tight (and I only did this just incase after about 10 prints. I probably don't need it.
Directions:

1. Remove the adhesive backing from the magnetic plate and install it on the back of the tempered glass plate. Try to minimize air bubbles. But if you get some it doesn't affect it at all. BTW the interwebs told me that this wouldn't work. Sometimes the interwebs are wrong.
2. Put the plate on the printer and add one bed clamp, hand tightened, for good measure.
3. Coat the bed plate with the glue stick. You can do this cold or hot. Not critical either way.
4. Print-win.

You won't need to reapply after every print. As a matter of fact when you start having bed adhesion issues you can, touch up the areas with the glue stick. I haven't had to clean the plate yet, using soap and water (the glue is water soluble) but there is a bit of maintenance that I do.
As you reapply a few times you will find that the glue builds up and can actually slightly affect the levelness of the surface. It is minor and I only saw it because of a octoprint bed visualizer plug-in. But this has a simple fix that is actually pretty cool. I use my scraper on the bed to take off the excess glue. After scraping you will notice that the composite surface, which which is made up of a tiny grid pattern, will have held on to the glue in its spaces. Amazingly you can get a few prints after that with no issues and start the whole process over again.
I haven't seen any difference in the adhesion surface on my print either. They have actually improved if anything. With the flexible plates I was getting discoloring on the part even if my z-offset was right.
I have been doing this for a few days now without any major issues. I am still on my first glue stick after many parts (well over 25) and I have only used a quarter of the glue stick.
At first I didn't use a bed clip and the magnet held it in place perfectly. Then I added one to the front. Not to secure the bed during printing, but to secure it when I use the scraper to remove the harder parts.
The parts mostly come off with your hands. The larger ones I have printed needed a little convincing with a scraper to get a corner up. But after that they came right off with just hand pressure. I actually am peeling off the skirt around my print easily with my fingers. In other words, no more scraper battels resulting in plate failure.
https://www.amazon.com/Creality-Upgraded-3D-Platform-235x235x3mm/dp/B07DS2LZF1 - I use the 220mm version but couldn't find it.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Elmer-s-Disappearing-Purple-School-Glue-Sticks-Washable-7g-0-24-oz-4-Count/25862849 - Not exactly what I use but the point is that it isn't really that critical. I went for cheap and water washable.
May all your prints stick and your camels have many babies...

Hello! If anyone is planning on dropping EDPS 410 in the spring or summer, can you please let me know? I need to take my IPT in the winter but I need to have taken EDPS 410 in order to be able to do my IPT. Thank you! :)

I’m a freshman thinking of rushing this spring but I’m nervous because I’m coming back from a tough winter term. I really want to bring up my GPA this term. I’m an engineering major and it’s important to me that I do well in school but I also want to expand my social circle. How often do sororities have meetings/events?

JUSTICE KNIGHTS:
Spiderman (Peter Kent) Superman x Spider-Man
Dark Claw (Logan Wayne/Bruce Howlett) Batman x Wolverine
Gorgon (Diana Murdock) Wonder Woman x Daredevil
Emerald Nova (Richard Jordan) Green Lantern x Nova
Living Lightning (Barry Rand) Flash x Iron Fist
Aqua Knight (Arthur Grant/Jake Curry/Orin Spector) Aquaman x Moon Knight
Longbow (Oliver Barton) Green Arrow x Hawkeye
Canary (Dinah Morse) Black Canary x Mockingbird
Black Beast (B'udda) Animal Man x Black Panther
Vampire Hunter (Eric Jones) Martian Manhunter x Blade
Kung Fu Kid (Val Chi) Karate Kid x Shang Chi
Doctor Mage (Kent Strange) Doctor Fate x Doctor Strange
INVADERS SOCIETY:
Green Sentinel (Alan Rodgers) Alan Scott x Captain America
Lantern Lad (Kyle Barnes) Kyle Rayner x Bucky
Spectral Torch (Hammond Corrigan) Spectre x Human Torch
Sea Hawk (Carter McKenzie/Namor-Hol) Hawkman x Namor
Living Lightning (Orson Garrick) Jay Garrick x Orson Randell
Timeframe (Rex Stark) Hourman x Howard Stark
Wild Puma (Ted Fireheart) Wildcat x Puma
Black Jack (Charles Falsworth) Doctor Mid-Nite x Union Jack
Sgt. Nick Rock (Sgt. Rock x Nick Fury)
Dr. Zatara (Anthony Zatara) Giovanni Zatara x Dr. Druid
Star Marvel (Robert Knight) Starman x Marvel Boy
Quicksand (Wesley Frank) Sandman x Whizzer
AVENGERS INTERNATIONAL:
Green Sentinel
Goldstar (Michael Jon Stark) Booster Gold x Iron Man
War Scarab (Ted Rhodes) Blue Beetle II x War Machine
Skulk (Cyrus Banner) Solomon Grundy x Hulk
Captain Thunder (Billy Blake) Shazam x Thor
Wild Puma II (Greer Montez) Yolanda Montez x Tigress
Vortex (Victor Smith) Red Tornado x Vision
Star Marvel (Kori Danvers) Starfire x Captain Marvel
Silver Magician (Pietro Zatara) Zachary Zatana x Quicksilver
Captain Albion (Nathaniel Braddock) Captain Atom x Captain Britain
Fire-Ant (Martin Pym & Ronnie Lang) Firestorm x Ant-Man
Stinger (Rhonda Van Dyne) Atomica x Wasp
THE FANTASTICS:
Mr. Marvelous (Michael Richards) Mr. Terrific x Mr. Fantastic
Translucent Woman (Lin Storm) Phantom Girl x Invisible Woman
Phosphorus (Patrick Storm) Plasticman x Human Torch
MetaThing (Rex Grim) Metamorpho x Thing
Power Spring (Luke Richards) Offspring x Powerhouse
Ms. Marvelous (Paula Richards) Ms. Terrific x Brainstorm
MIDNIGHT PACT:
Doctor Mage
Hellblaze (Damon Constantine) John Constantine x Damon Hellstrom
Scarlet Sorceress (Wanda Zatara) Zatana x Scarlet Witch
Morbius the Dead Man (Boston Morbius) Deadman x Morbius
Hannibal Bennett (Andrew Bennett x Hannibal King)
Man-Swamp (Ted Holland) Swampthing x Man-Thing
Etrigan the Werewolf (Jacob Blood) Etrigan x Werewolf by Night
Witchdoctor (Nommo Drumme) Doctor Mist x Brother Voodoo
Detective Platypus (T. Boward) Detective Chimp x Howard the Duck
Emma Bloodgem Amethyst x Elsa Bloodstone
Arcane Woman (Abigail Kale) Abigail Arcane x Witch Woman
Blue Demon (Johnny "Blaze" Cassidy) Blue Devil x Ghost Rider
X-SIDERS:
Black Storm (Ororo Pierce) Black Lightning x Storm
Soul Samurai (Tatsu Harada) Katana x Silver Samurai
Aura (Alison Doe) Halo x Dazzler
Terraman (Peter Markov) Geo-Force x Colossus
Karma (Huli Jing) Cheshire x Domino
Empress (Emily Frost) Looker x Emma Frost
Firebird (Beatrice Gray) Fire x Jean Grey
Iceberg (Bobbi Olafsdotter) Ice x Iceman
Source (Duke Summers) Signal x Cyclops
Black Claw (Laura Cain) Orphan x X-23
CORD (Kevin Summers) OMAC x Cable
Kinetic (Cecil LeBeau) Freight Train x Gambit
GALACTIC SQUAD:
Colonel Flag (Rick Harrison) Rick Flag x Jack Flag
Star Quinn (Harley Quill) Harley Quinn x Star Lord
Titanshot (Lawmora) Deathshot x Gamora
Ricochet Raccoon (Captain Boomerang x Rocket Raccoon)
Shipwreck (N'anoot) King Shark x Groot
Drax the Peacemaker (Arthur Smith) Peacemaker x Drax
The Witch (June Adam) Enchantress x Adam Warlock
Bugcatcher (Cleo Brandt) Ratcatcher 2 x Mantis
Mongula (Mongal x Nebula)
Ravager (Yondurlin) Savant x Yondu
MASTERS OF DOOM:
Apex Goblin (Lex Osborne) Lex Luthor x Green Goblin
Hyena (Napier Creed) Joker x Sabertooth
Predator (Minerva Poindexter) Cheetah x Bullseye
Baron Sinestro (Thaal Zemo) Sinesteo x Baron Zemo
Reverse Lightning (Eobard Davos) Professor Zoom x Steel Serpent
Manta Man (Roald Hyde) Black Manta x Bushman
Warmaster (Curt Masters) Prometheus x Taskmaster
Countess Vertigo (Count Vertigo x Lady Vertigo)
Shadow Klaw (Carl Klaue) Shadow Thief x Klaw
Malefrost (Malefic x Deacon Frost)
Khan (Sensi x Mandarin)
Dark Baron (Karl Mordu) Mordu x Baron Mordo
THUNDER BANDITS:
Red Merc (Wilson Todd) Red Hood x Deadpool
Elektris Natchia (Artemis Bana-Mighdall x Elektra)
Amino (Jimmy Brock) Bizarro x Venom
Crimson Hawk/Armory (Harper Bishop) Arsenal x Kate Bishop
Terminator (Slade Castle) Deathstroke x Punisher
Red Beast (Wade Ross) The General x Red Hulk
Devil Rider (Chato Reyes) El Diablo x Robbie Reyes
Agent Green (Guy Walker) Guy Gardner x U.S. Agent

Hello! I recently moved to the metro Vancouver Canada area and am in zone 8b - I have an east facing balcony that is shaded from above.
I’m pretty new to plants and gardening - my successes so far have been indoor succulents and a tiny potted rose bush that I managed to keep alive and seems to be emerging for the spring!
I’m looking for recommendations for plants that would do well on my balcony in this zone and aren’t too hard for a beginner. It would be perfect if these plants didn’t need to come inside in the winter because of my cats. I’m open to most things if you think it could work!
Thank you in advance :)

I got decants of a few Parfum De Marly's, Creeds, and a Tom Ford. Here are my experiences with each one:
PDM Layton:
The opening was my favorite part, but then it just got weird. As the day progressed it got worse and worse for me. The dry down started to smell like petroleum jelly or Vix vapor rub. . .Very menthol-like and very syrupy sweet which is my least favorite type of sweetness. Hours after that it started getting a strange funky starch/vegetable vibe. . .Hard to explain. It is an interesting scent that transforms drastically throughout the day, I'll give it that, and I think this is one that a lot of people will definitely really love. If it smelled like the opening all the way through I'd buy it in a heartbeat, but this one just ended up being too funky for me. 6/10
PDM Carlisle:
The opening is unbelievable. An absolute love at first sniff. It's very sweet and seductive with that gorgeous apple, perhaps the best apple I've smelled in a fragrance. As it dries down it gets sweeter and is reminiscent of a spiced, almost cinnamon-like apple with beautiful vanilla complimenting it. It reminds me of a fairy tale like Snow White, or perhaps the forbidden fruit in the Garden of Eden. . .It smells as good as a forbidden fruit tastes haha. This one is stunning and I'm going to buy a full 4.2 oz bottle of it. A perfect Fall and Winter scent. 9.5/10
PDM Harod:
The opening is a really beautiful but with an almost overbearing sweet scent of incense. Like, I got a ton of incense off the first spray! It did calm down a bit though after a few minutes and suddenly turned into a very sweet candle scent. This one isn't for me but I can appreciate its quality. It's sweeter than Carlisle which is saying something. 7/10
Creed Viking:
The opening was atrocious. . .I actually almost gagged. But about 5 minutes later, it started turning into the classiest minty fresh old school fragrance that I've ever smelled. This is a mature man's scent, one that means business. This is the kind of thing you wear to a formal occasion with a suit and tie, well groomed beard, styled hair (preferably grey). This is honestly really really good. I was afraid it would smell too old school but it has a modernity to it that really classes it into its own category. There's also a nice subtle sweetness there that makes it unique. . .Almost barbershop-like/shaving cream but not in a bad way whatsoever. It oddly reminds me of standing on the Cliffs of Dover or the Scottish Highlands with a white dress shirt on, the top two buttons unfastened, and a brisk wind at my back. One of my favorite Creeds and one of the cleanest scents I've ever smelled. I'm planning on getting a bottle, but first I'm going to test out the much cheaper Baldessarini Ultimate or Norse For Men 1765 to see if it will be a sufficient alternative. 9/10
Creed Original Vetiver:
This opens up with a very uplifting and beautiful citrus, sort of reminiscent of a succulent lime in a bird nest with hay and grass, but not much. It then transitions into a dry/sweet vetiver that smells like a dry field of grass that is being scorched by the sun. This is a perfect summer fragrance, especially if you live in a dry hot desert like I do as it invokes those scents. It's very nice but again. . .Zero performance. Creed has such good perfumery but their performance is always so ridiculous for the prices they ask! I This isn't good enough to buy a full bottle due to the price tag which bums me out. 8.5/10
Tom Ford Oud Wood:
Very interesting scent profile. It is definitely unisex but doesn't lean so feminine that you would feel weird wearing it. It leans mature, 25 and up. I'd say this would be the perfect scent for those formal occasions where you dress up in a suit and tie in the Spring/Summer. You could even wear this to the office with some slacks and a casual button up. Heck! I'd even say wearing this on vacation would be nice. . .I just feel like it's the perfect scent for occasions whatever they may be. The scent smells like oud (surprise surprise!). . .A mix of rooty woods that is mixed in with a smooth sweetness that comes from the vanilla. It's very smooth, very pleasant, and very calming. For me, I think I'll be content with my little 10ml travel spray as I don't see it being usable in many situations other than special occasions or a more formal office setting. That and it turns into a skin scent pretty quick. Definitely a special one, but not so versatile. 8/10

Hi - need advice on how to proceed here. First time home-owner, previous condo dweller so this is all new to us!
We are renovating a 100yo house that has a 50yo addition on one side, like a sunroom. The inspection identified water getting in to the sunroom on the 1st floor, below the windows. Our GC recommended replacing the old box gutters with, idk, new/different gutters to prevent water from getting in near the floor — he said gutters matter more than the window sills, which are rotted in some places.
Gutters came down in November……and haven’t yet been put back up. It was a mild winter but a fairly wet spring, and water now literally pours into that room when it rains. Like, tonight it filled mixing bowls placed all over the room in an hour.
To make matters worse it’s an all-wood room, ceiling and walls. So now we have the possibility of mold + stained and damaged wood.
We think the previous owners didn’t have this problem - they had carpet and a TV right where our new water feature is.
Could this all be happening because we currently have no gutters??? And is it reasonable for them to have been down for 4+ months?
Thank you!

Hi all, thanks for your feedback to my previous question. My family friend (Fanny) is an about-to-graduate premed (winter 2023) who is deciding between two research labs (for the summer) that do research related to the her preferred field of interest in medicine. (Fanny wants to get into MD-PHD program after a gap year or two). Both are offering a summer term with the possibility of a 1-2 year paid position after she graduates. I’m posting to get your opinions on which lab is the better “deal” for her.
What do the labs have in common?
Same field of study. Each lab is attached to a large medical schools in NYC. Both labs have several postdoc and Phd staff (less than 10), along with 1-2 assistants. Likely, working with either lab would be a great plus on Fanny’s resume but certainly be an even bigger boost when applying to their corresponding affiliated medical schools.
Sadly, both positions are unpaid volunteer positions.
Where do they differ?

Lab2 offers health insurance for the duration of the summer term. (Lab1 not offering is due to School1's policy on unpaid volunteers for all its labs) 

Lab1 PI seems a little intense and wants Fanny to commit to a 5-day workweek (said that 4 days a week was not ideal). Lab2 PI is much more personable/chill and is much, much more flexible (this PI was also talking about about their diverse experiences traveling around the world…)
In terms of research output, Lab1 guy has definitely published more well-cited papers.
Lab1 guy is a practicing MD-PHD and we believe that his own experiences in an MD-PHD program, as well as his experience dividing time between seeing patients vs. research, can both benefit Fanny more (his advice would be more directly applicable to Fanny). Lab2 guy no longer sees patients.
For type of work, Fanny’s role in Lab1 will be entirely in wet-lab research, an area she wants more experience in (she has a lot of dry-lab experience currently). For Lab2, the lab is on 50-50 wet lab, dry lab activities.
Recently, she spoke with a premed advisor about her preference to go with Lab1 guy but also possible concerns. A little surprisngly, the premed adviser had concerns that she was being exploited by the Lab1 guy, pointing out to [1] the lack of pay and [2] the lack of flexibility, but perhaps it is customary to make recently graduated premeds work for nothing. (And I wouldn’t expect that a researcher at a top medical lab to exploit their assistants).
Overall, our sense is that the Lab2 option is more “safe” and less likely to cause a headache if something turns up (PI is being unreasonable, something along the lines). But there can be more reward taking the Lab1 option. What do you think?
TL;DR: To summarize my question:

1. Which research lab will give Fanny an advantage when it comes to gaining experience & recognition, medical school applications, referrals?
2. Should we be concerned that Lab1 guy is “exploiting” her (to use the language of the premed advisor)? Is it normal for summer research volunteer experience to come without health insurance?

Hi all,
I'm planning a ~4 month trip to New Zealand and the South Pacific for 2024, and I'm trying to decide if I should take it in the Southern Hemisphere Fall/Winter (March—May) or WinteSpring (August—November).
I'd like to spend 2 months exploring New Zealand and 2 months exploring other island countries in the South Pacific. My goals are decent weather for hiking, lower crowds, and lower prices, so I'm considering two shoulder season itineraries:
Itinerary 1:

• March: New Zealand South Island
• April: New Zealand South Island, North Island
• May—June: Fiji, Vanuatu, other countries

I also have February free, but I didn't see an obvious place in the region to spend that month—any suggestions? I considered Australia, but I'm concerned about the summer heat.
Itinerary 2:

• August—September: Fiji, Vanuatu, other countries
• October: New Zealand North Island, South Island
• November: New Zealand South Island

Does one itinerary stand out over the other? Whichever season I don't choose, I will likely spend traveling in the Balkans, if that influences things at all. Thanks for any thoughts!