2023.06.03 11:56 ReadyNeighborhood286 Does this seem high?
|submitted by ReadyNeighborhood286 to u/ReadyNeighborhood286 [link] [comments]|
2023.06.03 11:41 Different-Aioli9626 Does this seem high?
|submitted by Different-Aioli9626 to u/Different-Aioli9626 [link] [comments]|
2023.06.03 10:19 Hoogie2004 How to add a Amplifi Instant Kit to an existing Ampifi HD setup
2023.06.03 10:11 tidderscot FACT SHEETS FOR EDUCATORS
‘The right question at the right time can move children to peaks in their thinking that result in significant steps forward and real intellectual excitement. Although it is almost impossible for an adult to know exactly the right time to ask a specific question of a specific child – especially for a teacher who is concerned with 30 or more children – children can raise the right question for themselves if the setting is right.’ (Millikan, et al 2014, p. 69)The value of questioning cannot be overstated, particularly when working with a pedagogy of inquiry. You need to consider what directions you are leading children with your questions, as well as what type of questions you ask children. Are they ‘thick’ questions or ‘thin’ questions? That is, are they questions that are open ended and encourage children to think broadly or do they close off children’s thinking?
2023.06.03 08:53 Quiet-Brilliant8126 Pulling my hair!
2023.06.03 06:46 AshAndy83 Cont. Collection of Clues S2 ep4
2023.06.03 06:08 r_cube12 [USA] [H] Dreamcast, Ps1-5, Xbox 360, Wii, Gamecube, Gameboy advance [W] PayPal
2023.06.03 05:25 Suspicious-Lie-6315 Need someone to check wiring diagram for button box - pro micro
I found a video of someone who made almost exactly the same thing as me with 32 functions. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z7Sc4MJ8RPM. Since im not using the 2 big switches he uses i edited it to use engine start stop instead. if you dont mind could someone please check over it?submitted by Suspicious-Lie-6315 to arduino [link] [comments]
Theres more photos in comments
2023.06.03 04:57 Sollant-Compressor How to prevent the burnout failure of the screw air compressor oil core?
submitted by Sollant-Compressor to u/Sollant-Compressor [link] [comments]
The oil separation core is one of the important accessories of the screw air compressor. It is to separate the oil and gas, let the oil return to the internal circulation of the air compressor, and let the gas be discharged for the user. At the same time, the oil separator core is also a vulnerable consumable, and it needs to be replaced in time after it expires.
The failure of the oil split core to burn is actually the oil split core being ignited. So, what are the measures to prevent the air compressor oil split core from burning?
Sollant Focus on Energy Saving http://www.sollantcompressor.com #sollantfactory #screwaircompressor #SollantCompressor #aircompressormanufacturer #AirCompressorSupplier #sollant
2023.06.03 04:35 lostguy01 How to stop things from fusing and flipping the circuit breaker?
2023.06.03 04:19 Full-Perception-5674 Using macro T=2 to cycle a push button on and off but when off they randomly turn back on.
Running 300x WS2815 leds using WLED 0.14. 40a 12v PSU. ESP32 dev board mounted on a PCB with 1000 uF capacitor, 5.2v Buck converter and level shifter.submitted by Full-Perception-5674 to WLED [link] [comments]
I have 2 push buttons setup on GPIO 34 and 35 and a 10k rotary knob on 36. Buttons are wired with 10k resistors between power and the push button. Signal wire comes off the same point that feeds the power and button then button ground goes to ground. Used the diagram found in Kno.WLED.ge macros section. Each button has a separate resistor and power pin. All the grounds come together at one point and run through 1 wire back to the esp.
Added note the push buttons have lights that stay on and turn off when pressed in. These are ran with the same power and ground pin as the actual push button.
All functions work when pressed or rotated. Turning left dims to 0% and right to about 98% due to the 1k resistor between power and rotary knob. Pressing button 1 with macro T=2 cycles the leds on and off with short press. Button 2 rotates through effects with short and sound effects with long.
My issue is if I hit button 1 to turn it on at some point 10-90 seconds later they turn right back on to the same setting as when turned off. I did find out if my rotary knob signal wire is not plugged into the ESP32 board everything is ok, but I lose my brightness adjustment. If I leave the rotary knob hooked up and just dim to 0 it stays off.
Any clue what could cause this?
2023.06.03 03:40 Confident-Travel-963 Does this seem high?
|submitted by Confident-Travel-963 to u/Confident-Travel-963 [link] [comments]|
2023.06.03 03:25 Loose-Requirement105 Do I tell my electrician my hot tub arrived early?
2023.06.03 02:57 Sparky3200 Another "Buddy of the Boss" Job at Hand
2023.06.03 02:54 Glad-Replacement3369 Does this seem high?
|submitted by Glad-Replacement3369 to u/Glad-Replacement3369 [link] [comments]|
2023.06.03 02:09 SuperUnstableGenius Frustration with NEMA stepper driver
2023.06.03 02:09 Artificiallyfucked ISO Wiring Diagram For 2004 SUBARU Legacy GT AUSTRALIA/JAPAN
2023.06.03 00:29 lbabinz [Best Buy] Weekly Top Deals Sale at Best Buy: June 2 - 8 (PlayStation Days of Play, Square Enix, 2K, Samsung Shopping Event, Smart Home Sale, Outlet Center, more)
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|Samsung 65" 4k Uhd Hdr Qled Tizen Smart Tv (qn65q60bafxzc) - Titan Grey - Open Box||1019.99||1089.99||70.00|
|Samsung 65" 4k Uhd Oled Tizen Smart Tv (qn65s95bafxzc) - Open Box||2209.99||2419.99||210.00|
|Amazon Echo Dot (5th Gen) Smart Speaker With Alexa - Charcoal||39.99||69.99||30.00|
|Amazon Echo Show 5 (2nd Gen) Smart Display With Alexa - Charcoal||69.99||99.99||30.00|
|Arlo Essential Spotlight Wire-free Indoooutdoor 1080p Security Camera - White - 4 Pack - Only At Best Buy||339.99||399.99||60.00|
|Click & Grow Smart Garden 9 (sg9s1us) - White||219.99||259.99||40.00|
|Eufy Eufycam 2 Pro Wireless Security System With 2 Bullet 2k Cameras - White||349.99||479.99||130.00|
|Eufy Touch & Wi-fi Smart Lock - Black||299.99||349.99||50.00|
|Ge Cync A19 Smart Led Light Bulb - Multi-colour||12.99||17.99||5.00|
|Google Nest Cam Wired Indoor Security Camera - Snow||99.99||128.99||29.00|
|Google Nest Cam Wire-free Indoooutdoor Security Camera - White||189.99||228.99||39.00|
|Google Nest Hub Max Smart Display With Google Assistant - Charcoal||238.99||299.99||61.00|
|Google Nest Hub (2nd Gen) Smart Display With Google Assistant - Chalk||79.99||129.99||50.00|
|Google Nest Wi-fi Smart Learning Thermostat (3rd Generation) - Stainless Steel||268.99||328.99||60.00|
|Nanoleaf Shapes Mini Triangle Panels - Smarter Kit - 5 Panels||59.97||149.97||90.00|
|Ring Wi-fi Video Doorbell Pro 2 - Satin Nickel||234.99||328.99||94.00|
|Sobro Smart Coffee Table With Refrigerated Drawer - White||1299.99||1999.99||700.00|
2023.06.02 22:51 hodsct59 Belmont Park And Woodbine Choices For 06-03-2023
2023.06.02 22:17 bengalsbyamilly NO sound from head unit
I’m getting no sound from my iDrive head unit.submitted by bengalsbyamilly to CarAV [link] [comments]
I have a 2011 bmw 335d e90 with base audio, 6 speakers and no amp. The front 2 door speakers are in parallel with the front 2 under seat subwoofers. The rear deck speakers are ran separately on their own lines but have a high pass filter so I can’t tap into that for any bass. I had everything wired previously and it all worked as it should. I have a spare sub in a box with an amp and everything already mounted ready to go. I got bored one night and decided to throw it in the truck of my car. I wired everything up and spliced it all together, etc. and it all worked fine and the sub played like it should. I decided I didn’t want to take up that much trunk space with a big subwoofer box so I decided to run a spare 4 channel amp I have laying around up to them instead. My plan was to replace the rear deck speakers and run the 4 channel amp to the 2 rear deck speakers and also to the 2 under seat subwoofers. I wired everything together and got nothing. I doubled checked it all and realized I had the subwoofer speaker signal taps for the line out converter mixed up with the wires than ran to the actual front subwoofer itself. So, I had my amp hooked up running 4 channels but 1 of the 4 channels was running back into the stock audio system which runs in parallel. Ever since I wired it up that way I haven’t gotten any audio from the car but I will get a hissing/scratchy noise from this subwoofer. It still works fine though, just no sound..? The line out converter I used is just a basic one (Scosche LOC2SL) which worked fine for the mono amp and sub when I tried. I used the same LOC for the 4 channel amp when I wired that up but obviously the 1 set of wires ran back into the system. I get 0 audio now after that happened where as before it all worked as it should. I was wondering how to check my iDrive head unit maybe with a multimeter? I wired it back to stock form again and still don’t get ANY audio. The whole reason I started this project was I was bored and already had all of this stuff sitting around so I didn’t have to buy anything 🤣. I’ve checked fuses and they were fine but I haven’t checked the MOST system or whatever it’s called. The MOST/fiber optic system is all new to me so I’m learning that right now lol. My head unit and all of its features work as they should no problem, I just don’t have ANY audio for literally anything. I’m not really sure how to check the head unit to see if it’s fried or not either.
I should also note that all front 4 speakers (2 doors, 2 under seats subs) were all 4 ohm but when I replaced the under seat subs those are 2 ohm. Front doors are 4 ohm and under seat subs are 2 ohm. All four are single voice coils. The stock head unit is 2 ohm stable and ran that way fine ever since I installed them in 06/2021. I forgot I ordered 2 ohm instead of 4 ohm and noticed that when my amp wouldn’t put out any signal to my speakers but wasn’t in protect mode.
The video attached is what I get when I hook up the + and - to the sub while the car is off. (Battery still hooked up, just not on accessory mode or anything) When it gets power (no audio or sound) it will click and pop like in the video. The cone itself sucks itself down towards the magnet when connected and will stay like that permanently while connected. It will put off a very faint hiss/scratching noise while connected. After letting it sit for like 5 mins connected the middle of the cone was pretty hot so I disconnected it and this is where I’m at lol.
I know I messed the system or whatever up probably, I just want to know how to check it all to narrow it down if anybody has ideas and is somewhat familiar with this system. I’ve always wired a bunch of stuff up in 10+ cars of mine without a problem but you can’t win them all I guess 😅
2023.06.02 21:18 rudeer_poke Akko Steam Engine 5108B Plus review from a mechanical noob
I am a (almost) first time mechanical keyboard user, so i thought i share my initial mechanical experience with the Akko 5108B Plus.submitted by rudeer_poke to MechanicalKeyboards [link] [comments]
A short introduction: basically all my life i used Logitech wireless keyboards that worked OK for me and set something like standard expectations from a keyboard, and this will be my comparison basis in the review. For this reason i'll also include items in the cons that probably no mechanical keyboards have, but i expect them from standard keyboards.
I have briefly used a Keychron K4 Pro, but i had troubles getting used to the 96% layout due to the fact that i need to switch between several keyboards at work and home, so wanted something with a classic layout, hence my choice went for the Akko 5108B Plus with ISO layout.
So let's get on with the review:
Packaging and contents:
The keyboard came in a classic cardboard box. Inside in a plastic bag there is box with an outer sleeve, with the actual keyboard with another smaller box containing the accessories like USB-C cable, spare switches, additional keycaps and a keycap and switch puller. The contents are surprisingly generous - the actual keyboard came with plain white (or rather yellowish white) and grey keycaps but there are accented orange keycaps included for keys like arrows, enter, esc, F5-F8 keys and a few other keys with pictograms. Also there is a dust cover. It's a thin plastic, but still useful for protecting your gear.
Overall i found the packaging quite frustrating. I like to keep all accessories in the original package, which means that when i want to use the keycap puller or one of the spare keys, i need to open four layers of packaging to get to it.
The contents however where a pleasant surprise, i certainly was not expecting spare switches and (so much) keycaps.
Too bad the dongle was just part of the accessories and has no dedicated place on the keyboard itself.
The actual keyboard:
The keyboard has a very uninspiring retro look akin to the keyboards i used in the early 90s with 286 and 386 computers, especially with the default keycaps. Somewhat surprisingly the keyboard is not white as it seemed from the official Akko site but yellowish, just like those old keyboards. Fortunately the included orange keycaps allow for some customization, which I immediately utilized to create something like this.
Overall the layout is pretty good, the dedicated multimedia keys are an excellent addition. The keycaps have a Cherry profile and are non-transparent. I am considering getting some lower profile shine trough keycaps in the future.
The keyboard is quite heavy, so moving it around my table is not as easy as with my basic logitech keyboard. The weight has probably some advantages in the eyes of true enthusiasts but i don't see them (yet). On the bottom there is a Mac/USB/Win switch, which is not an ideal position, especially for someone like me who regularly switches between Mac and PC, i'd prefer a more accessible location somewhere on the front. Or even better, no Mac/Win switch at all, but "dual branded" keycaps showing both Mac and Windows keys - i don't get how this is not a thing yet, not even with aftermarket keycaps.
The USB-C connector also deserves a few words: the connector is regressed into the center back by a few centimeters, so it makes connecting and disconnecting the cable a pain in the ass. It's rather for a permanent wired connection and not for the occasional connecting during charging (or changing the settings via the software). The keyboard is shipped with a special USB cable with a "keyed" USB-C connector that is probably supposed to secure the connector in place, however it limits the compatibility with other cables. There are "canals" on the back for wire routing, which i guess is a good think (if you use your keyboard in a wired mode).
I have opted for Akko's own purple switches, that should be very similar to MX Brown. I am by no means a typist, but I find the experience and the sound very pleasant.The keycaps feel a bit high compared to what I am used to and I also miss a palmrest. Before, I always used keyboards with an integrated palmrest as i hate having a separate piece of junk on my table. So if I get a palmrest, I'll need to find a way how to attach it to the keyboard permanently.
I have used the keyboard only with the supplied USB dongle and did not try the bluetooth or wired options (except for charging). Here i'd like to point out a major issue for me: when using the keyboard in wireless mode, it naturally enters sleep mode after a certain time to conserve battery. However waking up the keyboard takes some time. In reality it looks like this: i wake up my PC with my mouse and i want to type in my PIN to log in into the computer. However the typing gets registered only after the 3rd keypress, so of course my PIN is wrong and need to enter it once again. I know probably most mechanical keyboards behave like this, but coming from Logitech unifying keyboard i find this extremely annoying.
As I mentioned above, i briefly had the Keychron K4 Pro, which had a much better backlighting in my point of view. The Akko has a lot of animating effects, but they are rather gimmicky with no way to set a single color backlighting (or at least I could not figure it out). This makes getting shine trough keycaps in the future quite pointless.
The animations on the Keychron looked much better and had more customization options in my point of view.
Switching between the backlighting profiles are bound to the Ins/Del/Home/End/PgUp/PgDn keys, each of them having 3-4 different animation profiles, giving 20 effects altogether. However in my point of view only the "laser" one is worth it.
The keyboard uses the Akko Cloud Driver for settings. I took me some time to find the proper version, as the link on the website akkogear.de (where i ordered from) pointed to an older version, that was not detecting my keyboard. Also the file was hosted on google drive, which did not seem too professional. So i found a newer version on https://en.akkogear.com/download/ that finally worked.
The application allows to remap all the keys on the keyboard to some other function or macros, what i utilized to map the right windows key to the context menu function and to remap the "Calculator" key to Play/Pause. However the selection of keys than can be mapped is rather limited. For example the app does not offer a "Sleep" function, that I'd like to map to some key combinations. Also there is no way to map some custom application to any button or macro. I guess this is fairly normal, since the keyboard stores all information in itself, so settings are (have to be) unrelated to the operating system, but still this a function "normal" keyboards are offering. But macros can help in this regard to some extent.
My biggest issue however is with the Fn key combinations. The app allows to map Fn combos to most of keys (some of them are reserved for the keyboard functions, like the F buttons, HEPP and arrows cluster and a few others). However this function does not seem to work correctly. I wanted to map the Calculator app to FN+Num lock. The mapping went OK in the app and worked for a few times, but then it stopped and pressing FN+Num lock acts like a normal num lock no matter how often i try to set it in the app. Its just frustrating.
Also with every change of the settings there is a long loading animation, supposedly during which the settings are written into the keyboard. Someone here on reddit mentioned that due to frequent writings to the device's memory it may degrade over time.
QMK/Via in the Keychron had much more possibilities and am infinitely better user experience.
Also worth mentioning, that battery level can be checked in the Akko app, even when connected wirelessly via the dongle. The only battery indicator on the board is a single light that is blinking with low battery. The Keychron had an excellent function, when pressing FN+B lights up the numbers 1-0 corresponding to the battery charge level.
I have mixed feelings about the keyboard. Typing experience is something what I could call 'addictive', however in my point of view the keyboard is plagued by its crippled software and the wireless wake up issue. At this moment I am not sure if it's a keeper or not. The biggest question is what else to buy. Keychron is out of the question because they support only bluetooth with no dedicated dongle. I use a USB-C monitor to which I am connecting 4 different computers regularly and i want them to work immediately wirelessly without needing to pair them via bluetooth and then switching the connections on the board. Royal Kludge seems a good value, but does not have QMK and their app does not seem much better than Akko's. The Logi MX Mechanical seems toe be a viable (but boring) option, probably will give it a try later on.
+ great typing experience
+ generous package content
+ classic layout with added volume keys
+ fair price
- keyboard takes a loooong time to wake up from sleep
- Akko Cloud Driver app is meh at best
- the USB-C connector (and the respective wire) is a pain in the ass
- uninspiring backlight effects
- no place for USB dongle on the keyboard itself
- high profile keycaps and no integrated palmrest (like most mechanical keyboards)
- frustrating packaging
2023.06.02 20:31 DMP1993 Does this seem high?
|submitted by DMP1993 to electrical [link] [comments]|